Suits are going colourful, with butt-skimming jackets like those worn by e.tv’s weatherman Derek van Dam. Hilary Prendini Toffoli gets pointers from fashion industry gurus
Designate head of design for menswear for Woolworths SA, Umashan Naidoo is doing retail observations at Marks & Spencer in London before taking up the position here next year.
“Colour for the modern man is getting bigger and braver. Zara in London has launched red and cobalt jackets worn with green, light blue or yellow bottoms. Topman in London has a range of modern pastel suits. Other trend colours are navy, the silver greys, inky blacks, taupes, bronze naturals and rust to red browns. Also moody jewel colours for night and metallic shimmers done with taste.
“Updates of this season’s suit mean it looks bespoke on the torso and is nipped in the right places, giving you shape. The shoulder line is closer to the body and the silhouette sleeker. Currently there is a buzz about the shorter length. Anything below the butt is too long and anything on the waist too short. Balance is key.
“At the Pitti Uomo show in Florence recently, lapels defined the character of the wearer. A modernist approach is sleek notch lapels that follow the slim line of the suit. A more flamboyant bohemian approach is wider peak lapels.
“Many international retailers are bringing out summer wools as well as winter wools. Natural fabrics breathe, and the drape of the construction means it does not feel like a suit of armour.
“For a razzle on the town, viscose blends are cool. Sheen is big yet viscose sheens don’t look like Christmas foil wrappings. Stay away from satin for a suit. It can look like a show costume. For summer it’s all linen, linen cotton, cotton sateen and cotton seersuckers.
“Scarves add colour and character but weight is key. Finer, lighter, a vintage scarf worn with a crisp white shirt, not knotted, just loosely round the neck.
“Checks are big for shirts, but larger men should avoid bold checks. Stripes are simple. Two colours. The modern floral shirt is minimal, not bold, when worn with a suit. Details are secretive — for example buttons with contrast button holes. One can be noticed without being flash!”
Mark Gooding
After being headhunted in London by Edgars in the 1990s, Mark Gooding went on to head Woolworths W Collection and is now head of brands for House of Monatic, manufacturing menswear for just about every chain in SA.
“The new shorter jacket length is from 71cm to 75cm. This will just cover your trouser waistband, but on someone with an expanded waist it will look like a school blazer! The standard jacket length currently is 76cm-77cm, a good 3cm shorter than last decade.
“Except for casual suits like linen, which can be worn loose, the modern suit is fitted. All detailing, including lapels, has been narrowed to keep the proportions right. The double breast is still around but many of us haven’t forgotten those 1990s jackets that could double as a marquee for a wedding!
“Trousers are straight leg or slightly tapered from the knee to the ankle.
“Colours are all shades of grey (lighter in summer), French blue (a bright navy), periwinkle and caramel. In high fashion circles there’s a whole spectrum of shocking brights, best worn as separates.
“Ties are in a worldwide recession, sales at an all-time low. With suits being plain and shirts classic — Bengal stripes and chambrays — you can update your look with a rich silk tie in multicoloured check or bright paisley. Bow ties are big, often worn with a brightly coloured cardigan. For shoes it’s about colour, even in classic brogues and retro punched leather loafers. But don’t overmatch accessories or you’ll end up looking like a shop mannequin.”
Suliman Surtee
This 22-year-old scion of SA’s venerable Surtee Group is head of Boss Menswear and also works on the company’s other labels, including Zegan and Brioni. He travels five times a year to Europe.
“The new 73cm jacket drop is perfect for a high-fashion suit. Any shorter and it looks like a woman’s jacket. Standard drop for the more classic market is 75cm. Today’s slim-fit suits are popular because the shape is no longer like a box. It’s tapered slightly so the suit doesn’t look bulky and extra fabric doesn’t hang loose.
“The slimmer the suit, the slimmer the pants. Slim-fit bottom leg widths are 38cm but it depends on the person. If a big man wears a tight trouser and bends to pick up his pen, the pants will rip.
“Fashion has a seven-year cycle and Boss Black Label suits in the forthcoming season have thicker lapels but they’re not for our market. Average lapel width is 7,5cm-10cm, in proportion to the overall size of the suit.
“Double-breasted is coming back, but slimmer, shorter, more elegant. Blazers are lined in a different colour . Plain- coloured shirts are lifted with paisley or checks under collars, cuffs and button plackets. In suits colour has become very important. The darker your skin, the more colours you can pull off.”
Reggi Xaba
At his company Yellow Folder Trading, shoe industry guru Reggi Xaba conceptualises, develops and sources products for the local market, working with shoemakers in Italy and China.
“Men’s shoes have never been so exciting. Going into summer there’s an explosion of colour in suedes and tumbled leathers. To get colour into leather requires a wet treatment that works best in suede and nubuck leathers because of their thirsty character.
“Look for yellow, purple, red and blue. In our collections for Carducci and C Squared we’ve taken classic brogues and revisited them as statement colour vehicles, while for younger fashion the look is even more dandy with white soles and other light colour rubber compounds.
“Toe shapes are less pointy. Definitely not square. They take their cue from traditional looks like the round bump and the heavy toes of the Dr Martens’ 1980s styles. Almond toes are the modern, more dressy look, as are patent leather and plush fabrics like velvet in which the predominant colour is black and cobalt blue, if you can pull it off.
“An important style for cocktail wear is a pump without the bow. For sneakers the high tops are still there but even more flamboyant, with colour blocking and shiny inserts to make a bold statement. Again this area is driven by prime colours reminiscent of 1980s hip hop.”
